Antakya/Antioch/Hatay

After returning home from our backpacking trip at 8:30 on Friday night, we scrambled to unpack, repack, freshen up, and try to rest for our whirlwind trip to Antakya early the following morning.  We were instructed to be at the bus station (a 20 minute walk from our place) at 6 or 6:30 am.

Perhaps we were running on fumes, but we felt pretty refreshed and invigorated walking Adana's empty streets to the station.  The city had not yet woken up and the familiar streets and storefronts adorned new character.  We were excited to see Antakya and we were traveling about 70 pounds lighter than the prior three days.

At the station we bought our tickets and were shuttled to the Otogar - a bigger bus station on the outskirts of the city.  We were both too energized by the prospects of Antakya to sleep on the ensuing three hour bus ride.  Hilary read a few different Antakya travel guides while I was sucked into a Turkish-dubbed action movie on the seatback screen in front of me.  Complimentary, delicious coffee was served at some point.

Two hours into the journey we were riding on the edge of some foothills overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.  With the Nur Mountains on our left and beautiful, sprawling port of Iskenderun below us to the right we were struck with wonder.  It was amazing.

We arrived in Antakya around 10 am and took another shuttle to a random intersection where our friend Can was waiting for us.  He brought us to his childhood home where we had coffee and treats with Laura and the rest of his family.  Rest assured it was delightful.

Then we set off to experience the city.  With Can as our guide we received an insider's tour better than we could've found at any price.  A student of history, literature, religion, and Turkish culture - he shared the stories, secrets, and rich history that the truly enchanted city is swelling with.

First we went to the catholic church where we were staying the night to drop off our bag and tour the grounds.  The church was like a cross between a castle and a convent.  Its courtyard was really cool and we went up to the roof to take our version of the apparently iconic photograph featuring the church's bell tower with the nearby mosque's minaret in the background.  The city is a landmark of religious tolerance with prominent bases of Christianity, Islam, and Judaism on display throughout.

Walking through the streets again it seemed like we would turn down one winding alley only to turn again into a smaller, more winding alley and eventually end up in some quaint street filled with sidewalk cafes, artisans and gift shops.  We stopped at Can's cousin's store where we ate homemade hummus and bakla (a lightly-spiced, garlicky version of refried beans (sans garlic)).  Then we walked further to another restaurant to eat some doners for lunch where we met up with Can's nephew as well.

Next up was the Hatay Archeology Museum featuring one of the world's foremost mosaic collections.  I'm sure our photographs won't do it justice.  To spare some length I'll zip along for a little while.  After the museum we got some milkshakes in a remarkable courtyard cafe.

We then headed out to St. Peter's Church - reportedly the place where the term "Christian" originated.  The story is that Luke donated the cave on his property to Peter, Paul and others to congregate.  Sadly the church was closed for maintenance - until August 2013!  We climbed around the rocks and saw a few figures of Greek mythology carved into the rock's face.

Next we explored the endless web of the covered bazaar.  People, shops, clothes, toys, foods, and knick knacks everywhere.  We stopped and ate some hot kunefe - a dessert comprised of crispy shredded wheat, mild melted cheese, crushed pistachios and some type of syrup.

Then we headed back to attend mass at the catholic church.  It was my first mass so I may have been lost even if the whole thing was in English - not Turkish.  It culminated all of us linking pinkies and doing the Dance of David around the Eucharist table.

For supper we had some local fare at a traditional-style restaurant.  We let Can choose the dishes and we ended up with a table full of unique dishes to share.  We ate until we couldn't anymore, parted ways with Can and Laura, and went to bed.

The following morning Hilary and I ambled around in search of some coffee and a bite to eat.  We found a nice little patisserie and restfully welcomed the morning.  We walked around some of the streets we'd been on the prior day and eventually ended up at Can's mother's house for a fantastic home-cooked lunch.  Shortly after we headed home to Adana.  We were lucky enough to catch a ride with Laura, Can and his mother.

Our trip to Antakya filled us with gratitude, memories and amazing food.  The city's buildings, streets, and rich history are more ancient than either of us have yet to encounter.  Steeped back in the mundane details of daily life for a few weeks now, we cherish the joyful experience and look forward hopefully to whatever future journeys await.

Here are the pictures.  https://picasaweb.google.com/102414639040665306959/AntakyaTripFall2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCK7qhcjeqoLcVw